So about a month ago, for Marc's birthday, we stayed a weekend in Nice. It took no time at all to get there from Marseille (1h30 to be exact), and we couldn't get over the fact that such a paradise was so close! Nice kind of reminds me of California; wide, sweeping boulevards, big hillside homes, endless rows of the tallest palm trees you'll ever see, and lots of sun. But the most impressive was the water. Wow. It was stunning, a blue I've never seen and can't describe. Now I understand why Marseille didn't make the Cote d'Azur cut. Although the water here can be incredible, it's nothing like the water in Nice. The best views of the city are from Le Chateau, which you can access a number of ways from Vieux Nice or from Le Quai des Etats-Unis. I wasn't too crazy about the feel of Vieux Nice, which was too touristy and crowded, as much as I was enthralled by the architecture, narrow streets, and bulging building facades that seem to want to close in on you. With Italy only some 30 km away there was an incredible amount of Italian influence, from the churches and piazzas to the Italians themselves. The famous Marche des Fleurs, which runs parallel to the coast, was where I heard the most Italian. (I wasn't impressed with the market, although it did seem to boast a variety of products -- however overpriced!) Most Nicois that I've met have Italian last names or are of Italian origin. While we had coffee and pastries in the plaza (see pic at bottom) there was an engraving on the bell tower that listed the names of soldiers who fought and died in WWII, and very few names were French. Despite all the Italian influence, the city is just as much of a melange of cultures as Marseille. Only cleaner. Nice is known for its cuisine. We tried in vain to find an apparently excellent restaurant (will add the name once I remember it) that ended up being closed so we settled on a plate of "socca," a Nicoise specialty that's basically a fried chickpea pattie. I know it doesn't sound anything fantastic but it was delicious, especially with a glass of rose (much lighter than a pint of beer!), and fills you up. What we enjoyed most was walking around the neighborhoods that sit behind the main part of town. There we discovered tiny parks, flower gardens, sprawling mansions, and tranquility. Even better, dog-poop free streets! And, interestingly enough, the city's only Anglican church -- for Americans. We'd like to go back when the water's warm enough to swim in but I have no doubt the beaches will be unbelievably packed (which is why Marseille is a good option for those who want beautiful beaches without hordes of tourists)...
