Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Yummy

So these are my first (and not last!) attempts at food photography...we picked up these cakes at an incredible patisserie in Marseille called "Dites Moi Tout." We had been walking around all day and I wanted to show my Dad, who was visiting, one of the reasons why I love living in France. These people know how to eat!
I know they're not the greatest shots but I was playing around with shadow and light, focus, distance...hard work while you're salivating!

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

B.O. Smells Good to Me

Barack Obama is the 44th President of the United States!! Incredible. Even though I had trouble falling asleep last night and Marc woke up an hour before the alarm went off, we bolted out of bed at 6:15 as if it were Christmas morning. Only there was a sense of dread that accompanied our excitement; what if McCain was elected? Would the next 4 years be a continuation of the last 8, led by a man who changes ideological camps when it suits him and champions far-right policies or would the next 4 years be led by a man who is intelligent, capable, inspiring, and worthy? We turned on the TV and there it was, live: an image of Obama on stage in Chicago, waving to the crowds. Marc and I sleepily jumped up and down and hugged each other. America has disappointed me time and time again only to surprise me. I have a renewed faith and pride in my country, I really do. Just when the world had had enough of America we showed the world that we had had enough of ourselves and recognized, as Obama said, the time for change has come. It's strange to be in France during all of this, similar to when I was in Moscow during 9-11; only this time around it's a cause for celebration and a sense of change for the better, of new things to come, is palpable even an ocean away. Yesterday while running errands I had random encounters with 3 strangers -- a Lebanese tailor and a French aid worker and post office worker -- who all confessed their hope for Obama to win. I was nervous. There was the sense that if we elected McCain we'd not only be letting down our country but the world. Not this time! Before he left for work this morning Marc told me, "If we had an Obama button I'd wear it to work," and I laughed at the thought of a French-Canadian in a French company sporting an Obama button; not because I find it silly but because his comment is symbolic of all the hopes of so many who wanted Obama to win and saw that hope become a reality. I can't wait to go home in January!!!!

Thursday, October 23, 2008

My Date with Death

Just when I thought Life was getting cushiony, I now have the immense pleasure of facing Death every Thursday at 1 pm. Death comes in the form of a large, burly and gruff-voiced man named Jean* who wears a forest green welder's outfit lined with white, a very expensive watch and a thick, gold-chain necklace to accesorize his understated Grim Reaper look. Jean likes to burp and fart during our lessons, most of which he does in the adjacent room while preparing two cups of hot coffee spiked with methane. Yet he listens attentively and really tries to differentiate between "in" and "on" even though he always confuses them and will probably have Repetitive Stress Syndrome in his wrist from having to constantly flip through his notebook. Why is Jean Death, you ask? He works at a sterile, male-infested company that sits in a warehouse that sits at the farthest end of the industrial ports of Marseille so that, just to make my life more interesting, I have to call the company from the guard station and ask for someone to come pick me up. (This is already after a 30-minute hike to the bus, then a 15-minute bus ride.) Like Pluto's underworld, my river Styx is a boring drive along ugly hangars and warehouses. In the morning, that is. When Jean takes me in the afternoon, I strap in my seatbelt and hold on for life, searching for comfort in the miniature Horton elephant that sits on his dashboard. Who said Death didn't have a sense of humor. The next 2 minutes we are flying (today he drove 95 km in a 30 km zone) past buildings, overtaking slow trucks, skirting past speedbumps, and squealing around roundabouts. Dear Lord. When we get to the top of the hill and I thank him for the ride, I have usually given myself the biggest wedgie which I then gracefully wait to pick once I have reached the bus stop IF I am even able to walk. To wrap up this atypical blog, it certainly makes Life more exciting to wonder if every Thursday I'll die or not, seated next to Jean the flatulent guido welder. *name change

Friday, September 5, 2008

Bivouaking in the Alps

With a little encouragement from Heather today, I decided to share our trip to Les Queyras. We went there back in July. I think what impressed me most, other than camping in the Alps, was that only 1 hour outside of Marseille we were cruising along winding roads past country farms and small villages and gorgeous lakes, and 3 hours later, taking tight curves and passing under tunnels in the Alps. Les Queyras are in the Southern Alps and hug the Italian border. We had thought about taking a trail that took us across the border but decided to stick to France. (Apparently the terrain in Italy is pretty intense and not having camped in almost 3 years we thought it best to take it easy.) We parked the car in a town called l'Echalp that was literally a hodge-podge of 4 or 5 ramshackle buildings. Larger than the town was a gravel parking lot, from which we picked up the GR58 or Tour du Queyras From there on out it was nothing but climb, climb, climb. Man! I was beat an hour into what would be a 5.5 hour hike (about 7 km) that took us from 1,687 meters to 2,618 meters. Along the way we stopped to snack at lookout points, check out a herd of sheep that followed us with their jingling bells, breathe the pristine air, marvel at the silence (no scooters and horns and trash trucks!), and chill at Lac Egorgeou. It was so pristine. I dipped my feet in and washed my face. Nothing like some fresh Alpine water! Our goal was to set up camp at the next lake, Lac Foreant. We had read that you could see the first lake from the second, because it was at a higher altitude, so we thought, hey, it must be close. Nope. Another 1.5 hour hike up some rocky inclines and finally we reached our destination. We set up camp literally 30 seconds before it began to rain -- luckily a refreshing alpine drizzle -- and then had dinner. There were only 2 other tents so we felt pretty secluded. After an O.K. night of sleep (who sleeps like a baby in a tent?) we woke up and watched a couple fish. Not fish, people. They were an older couple and had woken us up at 4 in the morning when it was still pitch dark. At first I thought it was some boar (there are lynx and wolf as well) but it was just some crazy folks who must've left at 1 or 2 am to reach the lake in order to get a good catch. Pretty amazing. After breakfast we started the hike back and voila! our first camping trip in the Alps was a success.

Friday, August 22, 2008

Winged Visitors

Just a few pictures of the lovely birds that took over our courtyard during our last weeks living there. There were two babies, one of which learnt to fly about 3 days earlier than the second, pictured on my finger. Initially we tried to help it get up in the air -- we placed it on the table, we unknotted a string that got tangled around its talons, we gave it lots of moral support and encouragement (go baby oiseau, go!) but, in the end, I think we ended up traumatizing more than helping the poor thing. I felt horrible when one day I poured cleaning solution on the terrace in order to clean up their bird poop (it was everywhere, like it had rained blueberries!) and the baby, in an attempt to dodge me, decided to go for a little swim. I was afraid it would get sick so I washed it clean with the watering can. Needless to say, it did not enjoy its first shower. The parents were pretty protective, anytime we got close to the birds they began to chirp, their song sounding metallic -- like someone rubbing a rock on a cheese grater. Or something like that. Anyway, it may sound silly but we were so excited, and a little sad, when baby oiseau flew the coop...

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

The Three Men Who Cried for Port

Back in June, to celebrate our 5th wedding anniversary, Marc and I went to Porto. I came across this adage before going: "Lisbon plays, Braga prays, and Porto works." I've never been to Lisbon but since it's the capital and the richest city in Portugal, I think I can safely assume that Lisbon does indeed play. We made it to Braga, by train, a two-hour ride north of Porto through sleepy towns and rolling hills. It's a medieval town with stunning churches and clean streets and lots of balloons. (We happened to be there the weekend of the famous Sao Joao festival.) Porto was definitely industrial, like any port city I suppose, but had enough pockets of charm and tranquility that I wasn't so bummed by the amount of graffiti and crumbling buildings. There is tile work everywhere -- on the facades of houses, businesses, churches -- and it really lights up the stonework that has blackedned from years of pollution. We watched football (it was also the weekend of the EURO Cup Semis) and ate salted cod, and attempted to speak pidgen Portugese which was a lot harder than I expected. And I don't mean pronouncing words, I mean hearing them. It's a beautiful language, very sonorous, but when the Portugese speak it sounds like they're wrapping their words in a wad of cotton. We also took a boat ride along the Duoro River and spotted an enormous peacock in a tree in some beautiful park. I didn't know that peacocks hung out in trees...maybe Portugese peacocks do? The highlight of the trip was a day of Port tastings. We went to two places, Ramos Pinto (where I learned about white port) and Graham's. Graham's was the most fun and informative. Our guide, whose name I've forgotten, was really enthusiastic and completely transmitted his love of everything Port to us. It turned out his stepfather, un Francais, owned one of the surprisingly few Port tasting bars in the city, one which we had found the night before and stopped by only to find it closed. We were a small group of 4, guide included. The other was an American radiologist, from Maryland of all places, who took to Marc and I and who was really a pleasure to speak to. After a post-tour tasting he offered us a flight of vintage Ports and we just couldn't pass that up. So we stayed for another hour or so, chatting about Port and its history, and the pleasure of drinking Port, and travelling, and drank 4 vintage portst, all of which were incredibly good and one of which was the current year's and a gift from our guide. And it was during this carefree, slightly drunken afternoon that I heard 3 interesting stories involving Port. The first man is the radiologist's father. He fought in WWII and after fighting finds himself in London. There he drinks Port for the first time and falls in love. He spends the rest of his time scavenging the city's liquor stores for Port and by the time he leaves has put together quite a nice collection. When he goes through customs in New York he's told that the bottles have to be impounded. The man bursts into tears and begs the custom's agents not to quarantine his bottles because they'll be ruined. Perhaps surprised by the man's outburst, touched by his passion for something as seemingly banal as Port wine, or feeling nice on that particular day, they let him go -- with this bottles of Port. One of those bottles was from the 1940s, which the radiologist had the pleasure of sharing with his family this past Thanksgiving. Unfortunately his father had died a few years earlier but, as the radiologist told us, his father was there in spirit. I'm sure it was a memorable feast. The second man orders a case of vintage port. He picks up the case at a bar (the same one owned by the stepfather of our friend) and on the way out trips and falls. All the bottles shatter and the port spills out onto the street. He literally gets down on his hands and knees, crying like a baby, and begins to lick the Port off the street. Someone joins him. Eventually they are convinced it's not a good idea to lick the street and so the man, heartbroken, resigns himself to the loss.
The third and final man is our guide. He was young, a couple of years younger than me, but had grown up, as I imagine him, living and breathing Port. He had worked for a variety of Port companies and found Graham's the most authentic (despite it being run by an immigrant Scottish family) and the least commercial. There he has free reign. His guides are completely his. He goes on tangents, he gives his opinion, he holds up the other group behind us in order to finish his point. There's no script, no timed pauses. During the flight of vintage Port wines, he explains how the French are too chatty, the Americans not interested enough, the Germans and the Dutch too impatient to drink, and that in all his experiences the most enthusiastic listeners who pose the best questions are, drum roll please, the Maltese. Go figure. One day he had a large group of Maltese, about 50 strong, who were so attentive, so involved, and so patient (instead of running to the tables after the tour and guzzling down drinks they waited for him to tell them what to do) that he cried. He cried in front of 50-some people because their love of Port wine matched his own and so he cried because he was happy. He cried as they gave him their addresses in Malta, telling him to come visit. And he almost seemed to want to cry when telling us this story. Needless to say, I am now an ardent fan of Port wine. (And a factual tidbit: Graham's 2000 Vintage Port, which I tasted, was 1 of 5 Graham ports, a rarity in and of itself, to make it on the 2006 Wine Spectator's top 250 wines from 1995-2005.)

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

The Real Thing

So I now know that I'm a Marseillaise. It took over a year and a half (and a 2-hour wait at the gendarmerie to file a "declaration de vol") but I have finally been inducted into the Hall of Marseillaise, or, those women who have in one way or another been the victim of a crime. My story: last Saturday at the beach my phone was stolen. Malou and I had been at the beach but 5 minutes when a group of 10-12 year olds, no joke, suddenly surrounded us laughing, jostling one another, kicking up sand. We thought they were being annoying, silly kids; typical Marseille youth who have no regard for others. And although that was proved true, they weren't just horsing around. It was part of the game. While Malou and I were distracted by their antics, one of the kids faked a fall and threw himself on Malou. It was then that she realized, as she saw him reach for her bag, what was going on. I was slow on the uptake, appalled at the unruly kid who was sprawled out on my friend's lap and who then deservedly received a few slaps and a push. So while I'm tsk-tsking, the others have snagged my bag and run off. I realize it about 10 seconds too late. Malou takes off for a girl because onlookers have started shouting, "la fille! la fille!" I stand shocked, then run toward the rest of the group who stand idle as though they had nothing to do with it. This, too, was part of the show. Being such a large group it was hard to say who did what, who had what, and who was where. They dissolved into smaller parties in order to create more confusion, to evade being caught. What happened next was unbelievable. As I shouted at the boys, in both French and English, one of them raised his fist as if to hit me. I blocked his arm, astounded, and pushed him back. It was no use. They were just distracting me again and I knew I'd get nowhere with them. So I ran after Malou, who had disappeared, and waited. I tried calling my phone but it was turned off. Long story short, I managed to recover my bag but not my phone. Malou caught the girl who was empty-handed, perhaps having passed off the phone to someone else. We return to our towels (amazingly still there) and talk and moan and laugh about what happened. The most amazing thing was that people around us did nothing. They witnessed, stared, and gawked but didn't move an inch. An Italian sitting with friends nearby came over to apologize for not having helped, explaining that he hadn't been sure what was going on. I shrugged my shoulders, only becoming annoyed when he then asked us to join him and his friends for dinner. A little later I was hit by a soccer ball. Then told by a Lyonnais, again and again, "Laila, je t'aime. Je t'aime, Laila. Tu es mariee? C'est pas grave." It was an adventurous afternoon and, yet again, another typical day in Marseille.

Monday, April 21, 2008

A Weekend in Nice

So about a month ago, for Marc's birthday, we stayed a weekend in Nice. It took no time at all to get there from Marseille (1h30 to be exact), and we couldn't get over the fact that such a paradise was so close! Nice kind of reminds me of California; wide, sweeping boulevards, big hillside homes, endless rows of the tallest palm trees you'll ever see, and lots of sun. But the most impressive was the water. Wow. It was stunning, a blue I've never seen and can't describe. Now I understand why Marseille didn't make the Cote d'Azur cut. Although the water here can be incredible, it's nothing like the water in Nice. The best views of the city are from Le Chateau, which you can access a number of ways from Vieux Nice or from Le Quai des Etats-Unis. I wasn't too crazy about the feel of Vieux Nice, which was too touristy and crowded, as much as I was enthralled by the architecture, narrow streets, and bulging building facades that seem to want to close in on you. With Italy only some 30 km away there was an incredible amount of Italian influence, from the churches and piazzas to the Italians themselves. The famous Marche des Fleurs, which runs parallel to the coast, was where I heard the most Italian. (I wasn't impressed with the market, although it did seem to boast a variety of products -- however overpriced!) Most Nicois that I've met have Italian last names or are of Italian origin. While we had coffee and pastries in the plaza (see pic at bottom) there was an engraving on the bell tower that listed the names of soldiers who fought and died in WWII, and very few names were French. Despite all the Italian influence, the city is just as much of a melange of cultures as Marseille. Only cleaner. Nice is known for its cuisine. We tried in vain to find an apparently excellent restaurant (will add the name once I remember it) that ended up being closed so we settled on a plate of "socca," a Nicoise specialty that's basically a fried chickpea pattie. I know it doesn't sound anything fantastic but it was delicious, especially with a glass of rose (much lighter than a pint of beer!), and fills you up. What we enjoyed most was walking around the neighborhoods that sit behind the main part of town. There we discovered tiny parks, flower gardens, sprawling mansions, and tranquility. Even better, dog-poop free streets! And, interestingly enough, the city's only Anglican church -- for Americans. We'd like to go back when the water's warm enough to swim in but I have no doubt the beaches will be unbelievably packed (which is why Marseille is a good option for those who want beautiful beaches without hordes of tourists)...

Monday, February 25, 2008

Home At Last

When I recently went home to the US for a week, I had the immense pleasure of eating 3 different Persian dishes, all of which, in the hopes of an eventual return, my father had saved for me. Two were made by an aunt and one by my grandmother. The dishes -- ghormeh sabzi, khoresh-e-garcht, and fessenjon -- were doled out into plastic freezer bags and tightly sealed. As we cooked rice in my mother's kitchen, the perfumed smell of basmati filled the apartment mingling with simmering pomegranate, mushroom, onion, saffron, and parsley to name just a few. They were smells I missed. Until last night, I had avoided making Persian food for nearly a year and a half when I used to make it quite regularly. I grew up on this food. Apparently, when my grandmother babysat me for a year (just after she immigrated to the US during the Iranian Revolution of 79'), she would make these amazing dishes and blend a portion so that her toothless granddaughter could savor the flavors of her country without choking on a cube of beef. Years later, when we moved to the east coast to be closer to the rest of the Iranian family, there were big, family get-togethers nearly every weekend, smaller ones during the week, so that Persian food was a part of my regular diet; I ate rice the way most other Americans ate Kraft singles; I celebrated Nowruz, the Persian New Year, that stems from a pagan, Zoroastrian tradition; I said "merci" instead of "thank you." After the meals, we'd crank up the stereo and dance to the sitar or to Iranian pop music, my 5 aunts teaching me how to move like an Iranian woman, our soiled dinner napkins now moving sensually above our heads. It's all in the wrists, they'd say. Move your hips more, my grandmother would shout, snapping her fingers to the beat. And then we'd collapse, the food heavy in our bellies, to talk over tea and sweets. I have fond memories of those days. By the time I married, my husband had already acquired a taste for Persian food and I decided, somewhat nervously for Persian food isn't an easy cuisine, to learn how to cook it. Fast forward about 3 years and many dishes later. I'm in France. My kitchen is small and my stove top even smaller. I can't find good basmati rice (on one occasion, I pick up a burlap bag and several roaches scurry out from underneath!). The smallest range on the stove gives off too much heat so I worry the rice will burn. There are no Persian food stores...and so on and so forth. They're not so much excuses as evidence that my world has changed and I, for a while, am choosing not to face the changes that I can get away with not facing. In other words, what I realized was that I hadn't made Persian food in France because France was not yet home. But perhaps, in that inadvertent delay, I had caused that feeling to stick around longer. I had to make France my home. My sudden desire to cook Persian food could also be due to having returned from home and feeling homesick, the need to recreate what I no longer have, but whatever the reason, I think it's a good sign I'm beginning to cook Persian food again...

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Dream On

Americans will never surpass the French when it comes to certain things, like wine for example. It's just a fact one has to face. We may have some good wines, even great wines, but nothing like those that come from family-run vignobles that have existed for decades, perhaps centuries. Ever ready to proclaim how we do things better because it's new, different, or even more multi-cultural (see article link), the most recent claim is that American sommeliers are, in a nutshell, more friendly and therefore, by virtue of their openness, making a world that was once reserved for the upper classes more accessible. This may be true, but also true is that Americans don't like to be reminded of the class distinctions they prescribe to even though class in the States is just as important and omnipresent as it is in France. Whereas the French might make the distinction between class and cultural tradition, Americans, at least in this case, seem to confuse the two. Although I can understand how a sommelier's openness might make one feel more comfortable, garner interest, promote the pleasure of drinking wine, etc., I also understand the pleasure one can derive from ritual -- and the formality of ritual. There are established rules and those rules are meant to be followed, executed to perfection; everyone from the vignoble, wine-producer and bottler to the cellar manager, sommelier, and client plays his or her own role. The sommelier isn't there to make the client feel good about himself (that's the job of the wine!) but to ensure and to deliver. To perform. I'm reminded of eating out back home, when servers crouch down so that their chin is almost resting on the table and cheerfully say their name and act as though they're your best friend. This never happens in France. Servers don't want to be reminded that they're serving and to have to do so would be a personal insult as well as an embarrassment. I'm diverging, I know, but the point is that it's not about being more laidback, chatty, or better. It's about two countries who see wine, and the culture of wine, very differently. To know why I wrote this piece check out the somewhat maddening but revealing article "A Turn of the Corkscrew: How American Sommeliers Put Their French Counterparts to Shame" http://www.slate.com/id/2180456

The Hump Continues...

I just happened to mention to a friend about my entry on the word "hump" and its French equivalent. Shockingly, she had heard the expression before! (And to my dismay she had not grown up on a camel farm in North Dakota but in the English countryside.) In fact, when someone's "got the hump" it means they're sulking. Apparently it's reserved for adults who take on behavior worthy of a toddler throwing a temper tantrum. I don't think I could ever use this expression seriously but I do think I can begin to trust my dictionary once again.

Thursday, January 17, 2008

What You Got the Hump About?

So last night I asked my husband what "hump" was in French. (Don't ask why.) And I didn't mean "hump" as in a Quasimodo-like hump but hump as in "to hump," like what a dog might do to your leg at a dinner party. Here's what I found in Harrap's, a mammoth of a dictionary that I consult nearly every day. être bossu: to have a hump le plus difficile est passé maintenant: we're over the hump now faire la tête, bouder: to have the hump, be sulking. (What????? To have the hump?) pourquoi est-ce qu'il fait la tête?: what's he got the hump about? Say what!! Needless to say, I burst out laughing at this one. Never ever have I heard the expression "What's he got the hump about?" and if someone has I'd be inclined to think he/she had grown up on a camel farm in North Dakota. I don't know if this is just bad translation or something that simply can't be translated -- a direct translation, which also wouldn't make any sense, is "why's he making the head?" -- but I can't stop laughing at the thought of saying this to someone in English. In looking for another word I landed on "couch-potato." If you ever want to talk about someone who's a real couch-potato go ahead and say it in French, "il est très télé." Right. He's really television that guy. A real big lazy television. Then again, to poke fun at English, why potato and not turnip?

Monday, January 14, 2008

Uh...gross.

Every couple of months there's a city-wide advertising campaign to try and convince, remind, teach, and scold the Marseillais a thing or two about a particularly odious French problem: caca. More specifically, dog caca. This is the latest ad. I'm not sure it's effective but it certainly catches one's attention...hopefully not during lunch hour!

Friday, January 11, 2008

Not Sold on Les Soldes

Let it be known I don't really like shopping. Occassionally I'm inspired to hit the racks but usually I shop when I need something. Like boots. Boots are everywhere in France. No matter your age almost every female, even the least fashion-conscious, owns a pair of boots. The realization that I didn't have a pair of flat-soled, stylish yet comfortable boots irked me; all of a sudden my wardrobe was conspiring against me to make me feel even more un-French. So a few months ago I began the hunt for a pair of boots. But there were so many styles and colors, let alone stores, that I froze, indecisive and uncertain, when confronted with a decent or above-average pair. It was either the wrong height (ie the type of boot that looks like it walked off the set of "The Three Musketeers"), the heel was either too pointy or tall, the color wasn't just right, or it was too expensive. Or even too cheap, which meant it would fall apart in a week's time with all the walking I do. Then I remembered les soldes -- the sales -- and decided to wait a little longer to find the perfect boot. By law, for nearly two weeks, all stores must offer their latest collections (summer for the July sales and winter for the January sales) at incredible discounts. I recently learned that the reason stores don't have sales throughout the year (as is the case in the U.S. and most other parts of the world) is to prevent the bigger names, like Galeries Lafayette, from putting the smaller businesses out of business. Such is the theory of a socialist system. I see the point, but I find it somewhat protectionist. Of course, laws are needed and do exist to protect small businesses but enacting a law that discourages and prevents owners and consumers from doing what they do best (selling and buying) when they want to, would never happen in the U.S. Perhaps that's because we're such a money-driven society...In any case, the days preceding the sales are buzzing with anticipation. The racks overflow, colored tags appear next to the original price tag (although you don't find out its equivalent discount price until the first day of the sale), posters go up on storefront windows (PRIX CHOC, LIQUIDATION TOTALE, SOLDES! SOLDES!), and, most noticeably, tons of women are to be seen carousing the racks -- but not buying anything. They're scouting things out, misplacing and hiding items, trying to convince the salesperson to put things aside or to give them the discount in advance, both of which are not allowed. I even saw entire sections of stores being cordoned off to seperate the non-sale items from the sale ones and bins full of purses being saran-wrapped to prevent impatient fingers from doing all or any of the above. There's quite a bit of preparation involved. And so guess what this self-confessed non-shopper did on the first day of the sales? Woke up at 7 am, took the metro to the center, and hit the stores by 8. I was determined to get those boots I had seen the day before. (Yes, I confess, I followed the advice of one of Marc's female colleagues and did a pre-shopping.) I knew things went fast and that my size, 38, would also go by fast. Every woman on the metro was potential competition; I laughed at myself, getting hyped up for a stupid sale, but it was also exciting. I wanted to be one of the first. I wanted to get that pull with the scoop neck because, dammit, there were only 3 left and of those 3 only 2 mediums! In the end, I got the boots and the pull. Yet it was so anti-climatic and I felt like such a...consumer. I went to a few other stores but nothing caught me eye. Nothing on sale was that great, none of the discounts that amazing (although I'm sure in some stores incredible deals can be had), and I never witnessed any women fighting or playing tug-of-war with some stupid clothing, as I've heard sometimes happens. All in all, les soldes was rather disappointing. Maybe it depends on the year, or on the enthusiasm of the shopper, but I can't really complain because I finally have my first pair of French boots.

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Verlan: Word Play for Les Francais

At some point I realized that if I were going to truly learn French I had to drop the negative, smarmy, and holier-than-thou attitude. On particularly tough, depressing days I take out my frustrations on French culture and language. I poke fun at its hoity-toity rhythms, lambaste its delicate pronunciations, decry its lip-numbing (literally) formations and self-indulgent flowery-isms (who needs poetry in English when you have the suffix –ism?), and, most irritatingly, its play on words or jeux de mots. The French LOVE word play. My husband Marc has always told me about this, a phenomenon that had crossed the Atlantic and become an integral part of Quebecois culture as well. Word play isn’t just for the average cornball. In France it’s considered intellectual, as common as an octogenarian reading a bande desinée or comic book, and funny. Much of French humor is tied to word play because 1) there are so many words that sound alike and 2) so many of those same words that contain several, extremely unrelated meanings. The possibilities are endless. And so I shouldn’t have been surprised to learn about Verlan. Verlan is a language within a language. I can’t help but think of Ebonics as the near-perfect analogy. Both originated in the suburbs (meaning outlying city areas as opposed to strictly ghettoes), both were propagated by the hip hop community, and both have become accepted – to a certain degree – in every day life and interactions. Verlan began in Paris in the 1930s, gained momentum in the 70s and then saw an explosion in the 90s when French rap began to take off and reach a wider audience. (Here’s the departing point in my comparison, as Ebonics is generally used by the African-American population and Verlan is used by the populace at large.) Now Verlan is fashionable – it is a verb, verlaniser, much like “google” – although some already consider it ringard (corny, old-fashioned) and even d’une mauvaise manière (of a poor manner). Each to his own. But Verlan is a curiously interesting function of modern language-users; we continually attempt to make language less complex and more accessible by reducing syllables, dropping and/or rearranging letters, and inverting entire words. I find the opposite to be true, and it makes me wonder, somewhat nervously, what language(s) will be like 100 years from now, even earlier…which brings to mind David Mitchell’s “Cloud Atlas,” when in a futuristic world brand names become verbs and nouns. Nonetheless, one of the first mot verlanisé that I came across – without knowing it at the time – was keuf. Keuf means flic, or “cop,” in French. And keuf is flic, à la verlan. I mean, can’t you tell?! Here’s how that one works: keuf (keu-fli) = "flic" (fli-keu). In a way it works like Pig Latin: by dropping the final consonant sound “c” (as in “cut”) and adding the vowel sound –eu, the word thereby loses its original vowel sound to become “keu.” Add the “f” and voila!, you have the verlanised word keuf. But this is only what generally happens with a monosyllabic word. The rules are different for words of two syllables (apparently the simplest form) and for those with three or more. It must be known, however, that Verlan is intended to be a personalized language so although there are some “rules” none are set in stone. Here are a few more examples just to rattle your brain a bit:
zarbi = "bizarre" zyva = "vas-y" (go ahead) Moi → ouam Toi → ouat Méchant → chanmé (mean) Gentil → tigen (nice) Métro → tromé ou trom Voiture → turvoi (car) So far, les mots verlanisés haven’t held much appeal for me, perhaps because I’m still plowing through vernacular French. Then again, if and when the time comes that I do use Verlan I think it’ll be a huge sign that I’ve become more French than I would have ever imagined…et ca sera zarbi!